Wednesday 25 April 2012

Time is going too fast! Life back at home...

Where have the last two and a half weeks gone? A very long and maybe boring post, but I just wanted to communicate how I have been feeling since coming back after our Easter holidays, which seem a life time ago now! A lot of things have changed positively with my placement, and luckily a lot of the things that I love about this place have remained the same. I took the blog one week at a time to show how things have been progressing and changing but also because I have been a lot busier which can only mean good things here!

G1, G2 and G3- the lower part of the high school. Much chaos happens here! 

Week One: "Decisions, Decisions"

So, with much free time on my own in Ingwavuma this weekend, I am able to write about what it's been like coming back home. Before coming back, I had had a lot of issues with deciding on whether to leave my placement here and start afresh somewhere new. I was completely torn as I know that I feel completely settled here, we like our house and are surrounded by lovely people where we live and teach. I also enjoy teaching and would miss my learners so much if I left, and would feel like I've let them down in some way, or that I don't care about them. It would make me so sad to leave my closest friends behind who I spend so much time with and would I end up wishing I had stayed with them? I would also regret leaving this area when we haven't seen places we still want to see yet such as Swaziland, Mozambique and the battlefields, all of which I'm still really keen to visit. On the other hand, I was thinking that maybe it would be nice to do two placements- three months teaching and maybe the next three months could be spent somewhere else in the country doing something different. That maybe a different place would offer us more to do than two hours of teaching a day and more things to do and more people to visit. In the end I decided that instead of running from here, I would come back but try to improve things and get myself more involved in the community. On the first day back of school, Katie and I had a chat to the principal who was completely understanding when we told him we were feeling underutilised and bored. He was so lovely about it all and I asked him if maybe I could spend some time volunteering at the hospital here when I am not teaching. He thought it was a good idea, but just for weekends as he doesn't want to lose us at the school. I am quite happy to stay here some weekends now because I want to save some money mainly but also meet some more people here. That day our friend from the office, Beula, announced that she was leaving that afternoon as she had got a new job in tourism. I was sad to see her go because she has been so lovely to us from the start and was such a quirky character that she will be missed around school. However, this also means that they are now short of one of the office staff which gives us possibly more work to do, although we are yet to be of use in there. The principal said he would go and talk to the general manager of the hospital for me so I started to feel more optimistic about my time here. He also promised that he would find things for us to do, but as all principals are here, he is a busy man so we understand why he can't focus on us all the time. Unfortunately, our mentor Bongi has been away all week writing exams so hopefully when she is back next week she will be able to help me as well. Something that I am more excited about is starting my second teaching subject as of next week. I have been meaning to ask Mr Rafamoya, a lovely Zimbabwean guy who also teaches in the high school about his subject Social Science as I noticed he was teaching Nazi Germany last term to the grade nine's. He told me that the subject is half history and half geography so when I said I was interested in teaching some history he was more than happy to let me help him as he said he was more specialised in geography anyway. I was so happy because this means that I will be teaching more than twice a day, I will have more lessons to plan and I already know his classes as he teaches the subject to grades eight and nine. So this week he has been giving me the syllabus which consists of the French Revolution and Industrial Revolution for grade eight which I think will be alright but I've had to read up on it quite a bit. Grade nine are just starting Apartheid which I think will be great for me to learn about and teach at the same time, especially when it is so relevant to the country. After we finish that they are going to learn about the Cold War which I remember a lot about from A Level last year so I'm looking forward to that too. Life back at school and home. On Tuesday we started back at school and getting up at six was such an effort! I noticed that the sun wasn't as high in the sky as it usually was and the temperatures outside have dropped quite a bit- welcome to winter in South Africa! However, the sun still continues to shine and even today it is like a summers day in England! I was kind of dreading having the grade eights first for some reason but due to whole school assembly I only had them for half an hour and they were actually quiet as they wrote about their Easter holidays (it had to be done!). The rest of the day was spent planning my grade nine lessons as I have moved on from grammar and this term I am going to do poetry and literature with them. My 9b's last lesson were quite chatty but most were actually taking an interest in what we were learning about and I think we made some progress. Once we got home I did a lot of washing, cooked dinner, spoke to my Mum on the phone and then the boys came over from Manguzi in the evening. The rest of the week has been fairly uneventful but it's so nice to be back into a routine and I call this home now...I can't imagine being placed anywhere else! Our evenings after half seven are spent in Mienky's room in the house next door as she has a TV and a very comfy bed with lots of blankets! Mr Magagula is of course still living in our house and is still trying to teach us little bits of Zulu which I'm struggling to remember but “ou hambile” means “he went” if I need to use it! He is also still singing “Issy like Sunday morning” at me! This weekend I decided to stay in Ingwavuma whilst Katie went down to Manguzi to visit Johno because I wanted to save money and also sort out everything that is still in a mess from Easter. On Saturday I did loads of washing, cleaned up the kitchen which had become quite a mess from the last four days and started on the last four weeks with this blog which I had been putting off for a long time! A herd of cows managed to get into our garden so I had a bit of a surprise when I walked outside and was surrounded by cows eating the grass! I had a lovely Skype call with Heidi and then spent the evening at Mienky's watching a south African film called 'The Bang Bang Club'. There is a guy staying in their house who is a friend of TB's and he is studying to become a teacher but is also an actor and we were surprised to see that he was playing one of the characters in the film! I realised this weekend that I don't think I could ever live in a place by myself, it is way too quiet and lonely but I'm glad I stayed here to catch up. This morning, after tidying up my very messy side of the bedroom, I went over to Mienky's for a bit and then over to the Principals house. He was watching a film so I joined him for a bit and hinted about had he spoken to the manager at the hospital. He had not, but said he would go there tomorrow and so next weekend I might have some work there if it works out. Our mentor, Bongi, will be back on Wednesday so hopefully she will be able to help me too. The weekend after next we are going to Pretoria as we have five days off over a bank holiday weekend to see our lovely Rose who used to live here with us as that is where she lives and now has a job. I'm quite excited to see the capital of the country and also to catch up with Rose and meet her family.

Miss Donald and Miss Guess

Week Two: "YES, our oven is fixed!"

This week started off in chaos as it is the time of year where every teacher in the school must attend workshops. The education system here holds workshops for teachers on their specialised subject and they have to attend, even though it is during school hours. This basically meant that the whole week Katie and I were taking our lessons and then trying to keep the grades eight and nine in their classrooms during all the free lessons they were having due to various teachers being away. However, it was also my first day of teaching Apartheid to the grade nine's and it went well! We wrote notes on all the apartheid laws- what they were called, what they enforced and the aim for passing the law. I thought it might be a bit awkward teaching this subject because it is still not that long ago since people here were living through it, but it was not at all and I am trying to keep to just facts and no personal opinions! That afternoon I remember I was teaching a grade nine English lesson and supervising the grade eights with their social science (obviously there are clashes but I have to take English over SS) as Mr Rafamoyo was away and I was exhausted afterwards, due to constantly running between classrooms! Since we have been back from Easter, some of my students have actually started to take an interest in my culture and started asking me about the money and “do you have game parks there?” which I though was so funny! So the next day I grabbed a couple of the photos off of my bedroom wall of my friends and family; my photo book of the New Forest and some English currency I still have. They were really interested in the money and identified the Queen which they thought was great on a money note! They also marvelled at the pictures of the New Forest and asked if they could come back home with me! Towards the end of last week, the absence of so many teachers was starting to have a negative impact on both grades. They had had so many free lessons doing nothing that they started to think they could act like that when they did have lessons. Unfortunately, they do mess us around more so than the other teachers, not only because we are young but because they do not have the fear in them of us beating them. Sadly, although it is illegal here, some teachers do beat the children still. I absolutely hate seeing it and would never do it myself, but there is nothing that can be done to stop it when it happens, and it is unlikely that this is the only school in the country. Thursday was an exciting day as it was the first time I was teaching four lessons! I prepared really well for them: eight SS, eight English, 9A English and 9B SS. They all went really well and I am definitely getting to know my learners a lot better this term. In the afternoon I went to watch a bit of the grade twelve function which they were putting on to raise money for their matric dance. It was a variety show so there was dancing, singing and even some acting which was fantastic. We also had a fun time sitting in the office with Mienky, Mr Raf, Nqobile and Mr Stole- we laughed so so much over Mr Raf's political debates (it happened to be Independence Day in Zimbabwe that day) and a lady from a funeral company coming to talk to the staff about the policies they offer and no one turning up after she sent Mienky to go and find people. This resulted in a very annoyed looking funeral lady coming back to the office and Mienky running and hiding behind the photo copier because she was scared! Another highlight of last week was our oven being fixed! Ever since we got here we have been cooking on a two ring electric cooker, so this was a huge deal as we can do so much more and not everything has to be fried or boiled any more! Mienky asked me if I would help her with her grade fours' vocabulary and she gave me a list of words so that I could draw a chart. I was obviously feeling quite creative as I drew up a plan of what I would draw which involved the earth, villages and cities, the solar system including the sun, moon, planets and the stars, the four seasons and any other things that I could think of. I am still yet to finish the chart but it's looking good despite my questionable drawing and it has given me something to work on when I have free time in the evening. I am also hoping to do a clothing chart using cut outs from magazines after I finish this one. Last weekend was a big improvement on the previous one! On Friday night we went down to Manguzi to a place called 'Kosi Bay Cabins' where we met Johno's friend Harry who was experiencing a very quiet night at the bar. We had a lovely night chatting about English and south african culture, the places we had been to, the wildlife we had seen and I was introduced to the 'Springbok' shot. It was made with peppermint lacquer and Marula and it was actually nice, although I felt so rubbish the next day! We stayed in one of the cabins which was big enough for a whole family and when we woke up the next morning it was really hot! Harry cooked us breakfast and we stayed there all morning before going back to Patrick's to sleep/recover for the afternoon- never drinking Springboks again!! that night Patrick and I went back to Ingwavuma and just chilled and watched “Invictus” which was about the 1995 Rugby World Cup in South Africa. I enjoyed the film as it was so relevant to this country and it tied in with what I had been teaching that week about Apartheid. On Sunday morning I had accepted an invitation from my grade nine girls to go and watch them sing at their church at the hospital, which I was looking forward to as the singing is always amazing and it would be a good chance to meet new people in Ingwavuma. Unfortunately I got up too late and did not realise how late it was so I was disappointed at myself! Patrick and I wandered down to the shops, I did the washing whilst he skyped his friends in New Zealand, did a bit of school work and the day went so quick! In the evening I had a lovely Skype call with about ten members of my family who were all at home celebrating my Dad's birthday. They could see me on the camera and I could see fuzzy versions of them but it was like I was there with them and they asked lots of questions about South Africa and exclaimed at how long my hair has got! I also told them that I am so happy here now and I don't want to come home! (Don't worry, I will!)

The grade eight girls- they make me laugh all the time!


Week Three: “Ekse Majimbos!”

Monday started off pretty hectic as we got a new timetable for the high school. Over the weekend I completely forgot to plan anything for Monday but I usually had last lesson only. It turned out that I now have the first two lessons on a Monday morning- 9A English and 8 English! I somehow managed to get some stuff together and made it through the morning. Mr Rafamoyo gave me some lesson plan templates and taught me how to write a lesson plan which I thought was so lovely of him as it is giving me a real experience of life as a teacher. Up until now I have been using my paper pad to plan all my lessons, but using the lesson plans I have found makes everything a lot more structured and you can go through it easily. My new timetable has also given me a last lesson every day which means I have gained five hours also from taking on SS. I am really happy with this as it puts my hours up to fifteen and a half so I have three lessons a day Monday- Wednesday. On Thursday and Friday I only have first and last lessons so I am trying to find something to fill in that time.... This leads me to our visit from Matt from Lattitude on Tuesday afternoon. He was coming to see how we were getting on as the last time we had seen him was when he had arrived at our placement. We had a lot to talk about regarding how we had not been feeling fulfilled last term despite trying our best to get involved in the primary school and Bongi joined us and we realised at the start there had been quite a bit of confusion for lots of reasons about our role at the school when we arrived. The afternoon was really productive and we agreed to start meeting with Bongi once a week to talk about things. She also said she would try to start slotting us into the primary school to fill up some of our time, which will be helpful for me on those last two days of the week. After school, we visited the womens centre which is in a huge building behind the shops. The lady there explained to us that women come to do craft and make bags and clothes but there was also a school there. We ended up going to the classrooms and chatting to a lady who was teaching there. They are using an American system of teaching the students whereby they work on their own at their own pace and after asking how we might be able to get involved we decided it would be great if we could join in with their after school sports sessions twice a week. We were keen to set some after school clubs up at Nansindlela but unfortunately everyone goes after school as most of the children are not local so have to get their transport. If we can help out with these children at this tiny school in the women’s centre, and get our local students to join in, I would like to set up a dance or games club as I don't believe that everyone is interested in just football and cricket! Matt took us to Fancy Stitch afterwards which was nice of him and we then spent the evening planning our week after we finish our placement travelling from Durban to Cape Town on the Baz Bus exploring the Garden Route. Only eight weeks after this one! Time is going way too fast! Today was Wednesday which, as usual, involved a very long assembly and the last two days have been very cold so it was not fun standing outside! I taught lessons three and four, spent the whole lunchtime with the nine's finishing their assessment and then taught again last lesson which was productive for about half an hour and then sort of finished after I let them have a five minute break and got distracted myself. During the sports hour I let some of my learners plat my hair and they asked me if I would teach them how to do Ballet! I haven't done it since I was about ten but I said I would try and incorporate it into some fun dance if they could find me a CD player from somewhere (this probably means I will have to buy one myself!) and we would do that on Wednesday afternoons. Bongi told me that she had got in contact with an ex teacher of the school who was now running a special needs school down near Bhambanana (about half an hours drive from here) and some of the children were staying there at the weekend so would I like to go down there and do some stuff with them. I hope to go down next weekend as we have not got anything planned otherwise and I'm quite excited about it. After school we met up with Danny, an American guy who is volunteering with the Peace Corps down at Ingwavuma High School, at Fancy Stitch. He has been here for over a year teaching maths and science and we got in touch with him through Mr and Mrs Rafamoya. We chatted about both our experiences in Ingwavuma, our trips to Manguzi at the weekend, what we were teaching and then he came to see where we lived. Hopefully we will see him again as we have offered him a lift if we go down in the car to Manguzi where he also has friends. It was good to meet someone new here too! So yeah, that's about all that has happened in the last three weeks! Things are definitely getting much better as I am a lot busier at school which is filling up more time at home. I am so aware of time now as we only have eight more weeks of teaching and next week will only be three days long. I know that the three weeks travelling after placement will go so quickly and then it will be time to go home. I don't even like to think about it, it's going to be pretty hard for me! This weekend our plans to go to Pretoria to visit Rose were cancelled as she could not do it any more so instead Patrick and I are going to Swaziland for the five day weekend. Yes, five days! On Friday it is 'Freedom Day' which was the day the first democratic elections were held in South Africa eighteen years ago and then Tuesday is also a bank holiday, so we get Monday off too! Our plans for Swaziland are not very organised at the moment, but we are planning to taxi it to the Piet Retief border (we could just walk across the mountain here but it hasn't been advised!) then about an hours drive (possible a lot longer in a taxi) to Lobamba where our backpackers is. I am hoping to go to a cultural village and we are also keen to visit a game park there. The Swazi people are renowned for being extremely nice and the country is supposed to quite beautiful. I just hope it gets a bit warmer! Lastly, “You know you're back in Ingwavuma when...” Zulu guys are surprised when you don't want to marry them! You wait FOREVER at the shops for Mr Magagula and Mienky to do a few bits of shopping that should only take ten minutes. (and see all the teachers there too!) You have to confiscate a bible in a lesson? We are eating vetkoek way more than we should be You recognise a goat that you have previously named A massive lizard appears in your house but you don't even care You have strong cravings for chocolate biscuits You live off of polony and plastic cheese You're not surprised any more when a herd of cows enters the garden You respond automatically to “Miss D” “Teacher!” You say 'Sawubona' to every single person you meet along the road You are in bed by nine PM You recognise all the people that work in Spar You feel totally at home and can't believe you have to leave!!!

 We are getting to know the staff here well now! When brownies and ice cream are needed, this is the place to go!

Saturday 14 April 2012

The Wild Coast :)





We left the Drakensberg to go to the wild coast and it took us twelve hours from Johnny's place to get to Coffee Bay! Maybe because it was a Saturday there was more traffic and again, the only way to access Coffee Bay involved driving on a dirt road for about two hours and our GPS got us very lost as it was set to the 'shortest way'- very stressful! We finally arrived at the Coffee Shack where we were welcomed with a free drink and then shown to our dorms which involved crossing a river! This is Africa. We made dinner and then went to bed as we were so tired.

Our first day in Coffee Bay was lovely. I got my washing done and sorted out my student accommodation online (I keep forget I'm going to uni this year!) then we explored the small town on the beach. It is a surfers paradise, completely secluded with a few restaurants and small independent shops and stunning scenery. We looked in what I called the 'hippy shop' which had loads of cool clothes and I bought some green hippy trousers which are so comfortable but I was disappointed to see the label said “Made in India”. We then went to a pizza restaurant which used the outdoor pizza ovens and overlooked the Bay and then drove to the part of the beach where we could relax. I went in the water which after Cape Town I was happy to go in because it was much warmer! There were ladies selling beads- bracelets, toe rings, anklets and necklaces and we got so harassed by them! At one point two started pushing each other and they were tying beads around our ankles because they were so desperate for us to come to their particular products! We left with buying a few things but tried not to be sucked in again. It made me sad to think that they need the money so much but it also put us off looking again. That night we went to the shack for the free Sunday night 'Potjie' a traditional south African meal that is like a chicken stew and had Xhosa bread with it. Now we were out of KZN, we were in the Eastern Cape (otherwise known as the 'Traanskei) which meant that the tribal language was Xhosa- pronounced a bit like the word 'corsa' with a click at the start. We got chatting to an Australian couple who were nearing the end to their year of travelling around the world, and also a Scottish guy who was doing the same thing. They were all older than us and I thought they were very fortunate to have jobs that let them go for a year that they could return to when they got home. We talked about everything possible it seemed and it was great to hear their stories. The Australians were a lesbian couple and they were saying about how they have not been able to be a couple whilst in Africa because it is not as well accepted here, especially in Eastern Africa where they spent some time. It made me realise how they still very much have traditional values and beliefs in this part of the world and that can sometimes cause problems for the outside western traveller. Another interesting story I heard that night was from a Xhosa girl who had lost her Mum a few years back. She told us it was because her grandfather had been a Sangomer, and after he passed away and her mother realised she had a gift to also become one she refused to accept it because she did not want to lead that life. She suddenly fell ill and started dancing about going crazy and they realised that she must accept her gift otherwise she would die. The girl said that her mother did finally accept but it was too late so the ancestors took her. It was so fascinating and I'm glad we had learnt about Sangomers earlier that week so I could understand. The girl told us she thought she had a gift too and she would accept it because she did not want to die like her Mum did. Hard for us to believe, but she was so serious that no one could question it out loud.

When I woke up the next day I felt really run down and like I was getting a cold so I decided not to go on the surf lesson with the others but stay and sort out my washing, write some letters and post cards and just have some time by myself. We went to the beach for a bit and I read our guide books as we needed to decide where to go next. We decided we would go up to Port Shepstone which was about an hour from Durban where we wanted to end up. In the evening we chatted to an older English couple who were staying in Coffee Bay for two weeks and watched Xhosa boys from a local school sing and dance. They were nothing on the Zulu songs! A lovely few days spent in Coffee Bay!

We set off in the morning for Port Shepstone and arrived at the 'Spot Backpackers' in the afternoon which was in a quiet part just outside of the town. Port Shepstone itself was not very exciting, it seemed like an industrial place with a beach. That evening we went out for dinner at a nearby restaurant and got talking to a couple who had lived in London for over twenty years and had lots to tell us about the area we were staying in. They were surprised that we were travelling along the wild coast instead of the usual places. The meal was nice and we went back to the backpackers and chatted with a British guy and an Australian girl who were both volunteering in Lesotho. The girl had done six months out of two years- two years! I admired her for committing herself to living in Lesotho for so long. They were also on their Easter holidays travelling.

In the morning we took the couple at the restaurant's advice and drove up to a spot called Leopards Rock to have breakfast. We had a full English which was so nice and the views were just incredible of the river and the surrounding mountains. We paid our five rand insurance (less than 50p!) to go onto the rock which is famous for a photo of a leopard lying on it in the sun and sticks out with nothing underneath it. Climbing onto it wasn't scary because you couldn't see that there was nothing underneath but when I watched the others on it it made me nervous! We got some great photos and then drove up to Eland Game reserve where we had booked to go horse riding. We were a little bit early so we drove to the suspension bridge above the Oribi Gorge and walked across it. It was a little wobbly but very much safe but I had to tell myself to keep going for what seemed like forever! I am definitely getting rid of my slight fear of heights over here! On the way back we saw some eland which are almost a cross between a buck, a horse and a cow- they are huge! Horse riding consisted of the three of us, our guide and another girl. I haven't ridden since I was maybe about ten and I never properly learnt so it was like a new experience again. It was a lovely ride as we rode past zebra, eland and even saw wildebeest all running together. In the afternoon we went into Port Shepstone to do some shopping and then spent the evening chilling at the backpackers and had an amazing chicken salad and milk tart. Milk tart is a south African dessert that I can't really describe but I wish they made it in England! We realised that people from Coffee Bay were on the same path as us as we recognised a few of the people that had been there arrive which was cool.

On Thursday we drove down to Durban for midday and stopped in the centre. The first thing that hit me was the strong smell of spices and the heat. We got out of the car onto the bustling street and found Victoria Street Market. This was indoors and consisted of lots of little curios shops run by Indian south africans who all welcomed us in and helped us find something we wanted to buy. Unfortunately, I have a huge liking for the contents of these shops and ended up spending over five hundred rand on a painting and lots of other little souvenirs (presents for people at home!). One thing that made Durban so unattractive was the amount of Chinese shops. There is usually a Chinese shop in every town here and they sell the most tacky, un-useful stuff. In Durban they completely line the streets and they are full of the same things! Afterwards, we drove down to the Northern beach front which was very built up and touristy and stopped for lunch before finding our backpackers on the other side of the city. Due to it being Easter weekend we were unable to find any accommodation apart from in this one where we paid a little bit more than we usually would I think mainly because it had a pool and they gave you breakfast. It was also next to a beach and after checking in there we drove to a friend of Johno's house, Joel. He and Johno had driven down that day from Manguzi and we met them there and had yet another braii and a really lovely evening. Joel was surprised that we had gone into central Durban as living on the outskirts on the city he deemed it unsafe. Sometimes being a traveller makes you totally oblivious to these things!

Friday morning led us to the beach town of Amanzimtoti which was full of Chinese market stalls and a tacky beach front. We walked along the beach for a bit and then stopped for a drink in an overcrowded restaurant. In the afternoon we checked into a different backpackers as the one we had stayed in the night before didn't have room that night but we could go back the next night. Katie and Patrick had stayed in Banana backpackers before when I was in Cape Town and said it was in a bit of a dodgy area but was basically fine so we decided that with everywhere else booked up we would go there. We had to park our hire car on the main road and the place below the backpackers was called “Sonia's escort and massage” which tells you everything! Patrick and I wandered down to the beach front again for dinner and I had the famous “bunny chow” which is curry in a quarter of a loaf of bread! (thank goodness no rabbits!) There were lots of Indian Muslims all dressed up meeting and socialising with their friends and it was a lovely atmosphere at night. I bought some pineapple on a stick from a seller then we browsed the African markets where I held myself back from buying anything! Patrick bought a springbok fur after making sure it definitely was a springbok and not just a goat! We walked back and got a bit lost and I'm glad Patrick was with me as it was not the nicest area to be walking about at night.

The next morning I went down to our car to get something and a man from the car sales room there asked me if I knew the person who's car was in front of ours. It was Johno's and his drivers seat window had been completely smashed and his stereo ripped out. We watched it all on the showrooms CCTV and saw two guys just before six that morning come along and they looked at our car but luckily didn't touch it. One guy smashed Johno's window, ran away then came back and spent a long time in the drivers seat possibly trying to start it and then just ran off with the stereo. It was such a shame because everything else there had been fine but I suppose we should have thought about it more with having to leave our cars on the main street. We went into Durban to return our car to Avis and then I went to the post office and we all went to a mall as I needed to buy a few more things before we came home. We had lunch, went back to the backpackers we had stayed at previously which was much safer! For our last night we went to a restaurant (yes, we ate out a lot this week!) and a had a very chilled evening.

Easter Sunday was a funny morning! Patrick wanted to go to church so we found one near to where we were staying that seemed normal. We were welcomed by about twenty people in a row all asking the same questions... “where are you from? Where are you staying?” and in the end we were trying not to laugh as we constantly repeated ourselves but they were very nice! The service started with a band playing and of course we are not used to this but the service was alright if not very much to do with Easter and we ended up staying for tea and cake afterwards (the fact they had milk tart heavily influenced this decision). We got talking to a few people and then left after what seemed like hours! After searching for proper Easter eggs at a mall and realising they don't sell big ones in this country we settled on four little one's for all of us. We went back to the backpackers and packed all our stuff into Johno's corsa- not an easy job! It took us five hours to get back to Manguzi and we had dinner and went to bed. On Monday it was a bank holiday so we did all our food shopping in Manguzi (much cheaper than here) and came back to Ingwavuma late afternoon. The boys stayed for dinner and we decorated our room with our new paintings, various maps we had picked up and I put lots of post cards on my wall. Our room is looking lovely now!

And that was the end of my three week holiday! I saw so much wonderful scenery, met so many different people and learnt so much more about the culture here. I can't wait to go travelling again at the end of my placement but I am glad to not be living out a bag any more and it's good to be home :) Yebo!

The Drakensberg and Lesotho



I met Katie and Patrick at the airport and after having some lunch we left for the Northern Drakensberg in our lovely little hire Hyundai I10 which was just the right size for three of us plus our bags. The drive took around three hours and we arrived at the Ampitheatre backpackers in the late afternoon. The views of the mountains were incredible and the backpackers was huge and full of others like us. We had dinner there and chatted about our placements as we were all feeling that we were not being put to full use at them and what could we do about it. Before the holidays I was even contemplating moving to another one after Easter, so I was relieved to hear that Katie was also feeling like I was, although she wanted to stay. The next morning we joined up with a tour from the backpackers and met the group at seven thirty in the morning! Our guide was called Sim and he drove us in the mini bus to Sentinel Peak which is part of the 'Ampitheatre' a flat part of the mountains. The drive took a few hours but we drove into the Eastern Cape to get there and it was beautiful with the pink flower 'cosmos' and the colourful rondavels decorating the hill sides. The Peak was a large rock at the top of the mountain and the first part was fairly steep with a few rock faces to climb across but nothing too challenging. When we got to the place that would take us up the rock it involved about half an hour or more of climbing up huge boulders. I loved it because we really had to think about where we could put our feet and be careful of the tiny loose rocks and bits of earth that made it slippery. When we finally got to the top the view was so impressive and we were facing a sharp pointy rock in between two large mountains which I though was called Devils toe but is actually either devils hand or tooth! We stopped there for lunch and the extreme quietness hit me. After taking lots of pictures and peering over the edges and scaring ourselves we walked to the top of Tuluga Falls- the highest falls which is measured in five drops. It was basically just lots of pools on the top of the mountain which was not very exciting but then we met these three shepards with their dogs. They were dressed in blankets and hats and apart from that just their underwear! They were very happy to let us have our pictures with us and stayed with us the whole time before we moved on to get back down the mountain. This involved climbing down two very long and wobbly ladders. It's something I would have never done before but being here has made me want to try things and I had no other way down so I did it! On the second one I was very nervous so Sim put a harness on me which made me feel a lot safer but I'm glad I did it! The walk back down seemed to take forever and by that point we were all feeling tired. It was a fantastic day though and I got some great photo's.

On the Wednesday we were up early again to go on another tour...this time to Lesotho! This is the small country in the middle of South Africa and I never expected to visit there so i'm really glad we got the opportunity. Again, it took a few hours to get there and the number of people in the group was so big that we went with the new receptionist, Rowanda, who we had chatted to the night before in a 4x4 following the mini bus in front. So many potholes! It was a steep climb to the Lesotho border and when we got out it was freezing! We got our passports stamped and then drove into the beautiful countryside. The best thing about Lesotho that it appears to be almost untouched by western culture which is something that is somewhat ruining the traditional South African culture. The Basotho people still dress traditionally wearing wellies and blankets, apparently something the British gave them when they were fleeing from King Shaka and had to stay at the top of the mountains. The backpackers gives some of the money that we paid for the tour to one of the schools there so we visited the three building school, one of which had been paid for by them. Our guide, Zeccy, gave us a talk on the school and a bit about the country and their principal gave us a thank you speech for coming to visit. We then did some walking through the hills and stopped for lunch whilst Zeccy explained to us why Lesotho had been separated from South Africa. The British helped the Basotho people in one of the Zulu wars and after trying to let them become the responsibility of the cape people, which they strongly refused, they let them become a separate country. (or something like that!) We then walked down into a village after seeing some very faint rock art that had been mostly eroded away. A white flag outside of a rondavel signalled that there would be some traditional beer for us to try...which we did and it was horrible! It was thick and lumpy and so acidic! At least I tried it! We explored a bit more of Lesotho, trying a traditional meal of pumpkin leaves and pap (maize meal) which I had had before here which reminded me of what an advantage I have had over those other travellers to be living in a culture for a longer amount of time that simply peering into it for a few weeks. Lastly, we met a Sangomer which is a traditonal healer. He was very quiet and could only speak in Sotho, so our guide translated for us. He was wearing traditional clothing with objects around his neck such as sharks teeth which he had acquired when he was training. To become a Sangomer, you have to possess a 'gift' that is passed down to you through your ancestors. This gift is recognised by their family at any age and then they have no choice but to go for training. Sick people will come to them but will not say what is wrong. The sangomer will then talk to their ancestors and find out what it is then will use herbs and traditional medicines to help that person for a fee. It was interesting to hear but also quite hard to believe this new cultural belief about talking to ancestors- not just for Sangomers' but for lots of the tribal people in South Africa it is a way of life. They believe that they must honour their ancestors by talking to them and sacrificing gifts or they will not be rewarded. After a long day, we only just made it out of the country by four, which is when the border gate closes! Overall, our time at the backpackers was worthwhile and we would definitely go back there.

The next few days were unplanned and therefore we didn't actually do much except drive! We were heading from the northern Drakensberg down to the central Drakensberg to a place called Sani Pass. First we visited Giant Castle, an area that contains a mountain that looks like it has a giant lying on top of it. Unfortunately, it was more of somewhere to stop for lunch and we did not have time to hike up there. I was struggling that day with missing home and feeling very confused about my placement and it all got a bit too much so I had a long chat with my Mum and begged her to come out here for a week! It was really bothering me because I didn't want to run away from somewhere I liked being, but I was desperate to know if maybe there was somewhere else I could go and maybe do something else and be of more use. In the end, we walked up to the top of a hill and sat watching a family of baboons...something I love about south africa is coming across the wildlife in unexpected places! Unlike the ones in cape Town, these were passive towards us and the little baby ones skipped about on the rocks looking very sweet. We made our way to our backpackers and ended up getting ridiculously lost for hours on a very long dirt road through the mountains. It got dark and we couldn't see anything for miles which was quite scary! It was the first time I have felt really scared in this country when there was probably nothing to worry about as there really was no one around as everyone avoids that road! We managed to find our way out and pretty much just went to sleep once we got to the Sani Lodge. Not the best day!

In the morning we tried to find somewhere to horse ride but instead stopped at a quaint little tea rooms on the side of the road before going into Underberg which had shops! We decided to drive up the Sani Pass, a road up to the Lesotho border. I was not actually sure what the place was but this is what google says.. “Once, the Sani Pass was a rough mule trail descending the Eastern Highlands of old Basutoland into Natal. Tough drovers brought wool and mohair down the Pass on donkeys and mules to be exchanged for blankets … clothing … maize meal … the essentials for life in a remote, impoverished country.” For us it was pushing our small hire car to its limits up a steep dirt road to get to a point where we could go no further without a 4x4. Saw some nice little waterfalls though! That evening we had planned to stay with another volunteer, Johnny, who is working at an outdoor education centre in the area. The weather turned quite cold and rainy but we were met by all the people he works and lives with who were mostly there for short periods of time as interns in between studying. We compared placements with Johnny who has not had much time off to see the country and has to work very long days but is also enjoying it. We felt like we were at the extreme opposite: lucky enough to have had weekends off to explore the top part of this country, plus school holidays but also with too much free time in the week so we get bored! We braaid (so fed up of them now!), toasted marshmallows and slept in their living room by an open fire- so nice!

Overall, the Drakensberg was a great place to visit- beautiful and impressive scenery, some great hikes, learning more about the African culture and getting very very lost! I think I enjoyed the hike up Sentinel Peak the most as it was an adventure and the view at the top was overwhelming.

I love Cape Town!



So it's been four weeks since I last wrote in this blog and I now finally have time to sit down and write about how amazing the last month has been in this beautiful country. To avoid a huge long essay I am going to break the weeks up starting with when I went to Cape Town....

I left Manguzi on the Saturday morning of March 17th with our friend Jacques who drove me to King Shaka (a famous Zulu King) airport just outside of Durban. I drove some of the way and the journey took around four hours meaning we were quite early for my flight which was at six. I ended up being at the airport for five hours because my flight was delayed twice! The airport was built for the world cup two years ago so it is all very new and modern. The first thing that struck me was the amount of Indian south Africans who were there. There is a huge population of Indians in the city of Durban which started when they came over from India to work in the gold and diamond industry in the nineteenth century on contracts and ended up staying. The second thing that struck me was that everyone there seemed to be dressed up in their best clothes, especially the Indian women who were wearing lots of expensive jewellery and pretty materials. I felt a bit out of place in my usual t shirt and shorts! It was completely safe there but I was glad to get on the plane finally around half past eight. Since coming here I have basically got over my fear of flying so the flight was alright but I was willing those two hours to hurry up so I could just get off and meet Sonia. She and her Dad met me at Cape Town International airport and suddenly it was like five and a half years apart had never happened. We drove back to hers and in the darkness I caught a glimpse of Table Mountain.

On Sunday morning I had breakfast together with the whole family which was really lovely and then Sonia, her Mum and I went to their church which was an experience! It was a huge building and there was a young band playing with a huge screen displaying lots of videos and events going on within the church. It was like I had walked into a concert or something, although not quite like the Zulu church we went to all those weeks ago! I thought it was great that they made it exciting for young people as I haven't really seen that before at home. It was a beautiful day and I realised that the weather is quite different to where we are staying. In Cape Town it feels more like a really hot day in England, where you can feel the suns heat on you, whereas here the heat comes from all around as it is more humid. Apparently this is to do with the lack of ozone layer above the city. The first thing that struck me about the place was all the mountains! I don't know why but in my complete naïvety, I believed that there was Table Mountain and Table Mountain alone! The mountains that surround the city seem to be almost painted on to a background like they are not actually real, it's quite hard to explain it. After church we met up with some of Sonia's friends from her uni and went her friend Catherine's beautiful house where I met everyone who was lovely and we walked up Eagles Nest. It was an effort as I have not walked in ages but there were beautiful views at the top and we walked on through to the Kirstenbosch botanical gardens. It is a beautiful place and it was interesting to see the medicinal garden which contained each plant that would help with a particular illness. After the walk we went back to Catherine's house and made pizzas in her pizza oven, which everyone seems to have there! It was a really lovely evening with some great stories and good company :)


Monday was spent shopping and for me, getting back in to some kind of normality! For three months I have not been to normal shops where you can get everything you need so it was actually really fun to go to the mall! I bought quite a few new clothes and shoes that desperately needed replacing and the best shop here has to be Mr Price because they have decent clothes that are fairly cheap (you would compare it to New Look probably). On Tuesday, Sonia and I went into town and had a hilarious touristy day. We started off by seeing the Castle of Good Hope, built by the Dutch when they first came to South Africa and then went on to the Green Square Market. This was a street full of African stalls selling souvenirs and they are so fun to look around! I ended up bartering for about ten minutes for this painting I really wanted because I really had not brought enough money with me and had left my card at home. I managed to get it from 500 rand down to 250 by Sonia and I putting everything we had together! It is an oil painting of two African ladies and it is full of colour and life and I just had to have it! We moved on to Company Gardens which belong to the government and saw lots of statues of historic figures such as Cecil John Rhodes, an Englishman who was a key figure in the colonisation of Africa (which is why Zimbabwe used to be known as Rhodesia). We met some Japanese tourists who Sonia initially thought wanted us to take their photo but it turned out that they wanted their picture with us! We had to have one with the two men and then the lady whilst being filmed on their video camera the whole time not really sure what was going on! It was so funny and just made that visit to company gardens! Next we visited Clifton beach and stopped there for lunch. I put my feet in the water but it was unbelievably cold! They are nearer to the Arctic there so the water is much colder than what we have experienced this side with the Indian ocean, even colder than the sea at home! The houses on the beach front were stunning and very impressive, although I thought it looked a little overcrowded personally. We also stopped at Camps Bay for ice cream and it was busier with lots of shops along the front. That night, Sonia and I stayed up chatting for hours, trying to catch up on everything that had happened in the last five years that we might not have told each other before. Where we have kept in contact the whole time, I found it so easy to talk to her about absolutely everything and I think she also felt that way...so many funny stories and also I could tell her all about the experiences I've had so far here as she has not yet been to this part of the country.


Wednesday was a fantastic day spent with the family. It was Human Rights Day, another of the many public holidays of this country and I was kindly given a great tour of the Cape peninsula after first being shown some of the townships in the city. The only experience of townships I had so far were the ones in Soweto, Johannesburg where I was surprised to find that most had been rebuilt and the tin shacks were few and out of the way of the main city. However, here we were driving through a normal area and then suddenly hit this deserted, almost eery place where I saw row upon row of tin shacks crushed together in a tiny space. Moving on from here, we stopped in Kalk Bay which is a cute little fishing bay which was thriving with people. Whilst waiting for Glynis and Jose to get a table at a coffee place, Sonia and I explored the boutiques that draw you in because of their uniqueness. I looked through old post cards, books and maps and was totally absorbed in it all. We had tea and cake and then went down to the beach bit where we sat on the side and watched a whole group of huge seals flipping about in the water. I tried so hard to get a photo of them but they moved so quickly! There were coloured south Africans gutting fish there as well so I watched them for a bit. I had not met a coloured person before here yet, and wouldn't have understood the real meaning until coming here. The coloured people are a mix of black African and white African people that have since developed their own culture and languages and there is a large population in Cape Town, whereas I have met none in KwaZulu Natal. It was interesting for me to hear them speaking in what sounded a bit like a white south African accent but with black African qualities as well. We drove around more of the bays and beaches that the city has to offer and stopped at a place called Judas peak which really reminded me of Pride Rock in the 'Lion King'! We were unable to drive down to the secluded beach so we walked down the steep path and the sea was not as cold this time! The weather was stunning all day and I saw my first baboon, although they are much feared there because they have become so vicious from being fed, which I thought was a little sad. We stopped at Boulders Beach which is famous for its resident penguins and we saw loads and they were such sweet little creatures, although a little out of place in Africa when I am used to seeing them in icy places on TV! We stopped in Hout Bay, another fishing area that is hidden between mountains and had fish and chips as the sun set. It was a truly lovely day with the family.


Thursday was another chilled day going to the mall to buy a few other things I needed (I finally got drawing pins!!) and a few more clothes. That evening we went out for cocktails at Blouberg beach with Sonia's friend Kerry. It was a great evening as I saw all the kite surfers in action and the sun set was just incredible. Due to the clouds, it caused an array of deep pinks, reds and oranges to spread across the sky and it was so, so pretty. The cocktails were amazing too ;)


On Friday we got up early as we were heading out for the day over to the winelands before going camping for the night. Whilst we waited for everyone to arrive, I learnt how to play 'Kings'- I am very slow at card games but I got there in the end after finally learning not to show my cards to everyone. Finally, we drove to Stellenbosch with Kerry, Darren and Kerry's friend who's name has escaped me, to meet up with two of their friends who are studying at the university there. The university occupies much of the town of Stellenbosch and the campus is simply stunning, what a beautiful place to study in! We wandered around and chatted and it was unbelievably hot! We then drove through Franshoek, a quaint little Dutch looking town that consisted of lots of lovely white buildings but we didn't have time to stop. We were camping at a sailing club called Theewaters (I pronounced it as thee and waters but it's actually an Afrikaans word sounding like “theeaarrvaarters”!) and we set up the tent next to the dam. We had a nice evening having a few drinks and of course, a braai and met lots of people.


The next morning we had to get back as I was attending my first wedding! One of the other Lattitude volunteers, Sophie, who is volunteering at a school in Cape Town was getting married to her boyfriend and we had been invited so of course I said yes! It was in a traditional looking church and most of the church was full of coloured South Africans from her boyfriends family but it was very British and traditional in the way that the hymns had been chosen and the service was conducted. It was great to see three other volunteers: Moynul, Emily and Sam who I hadn't seen since Jo'burg and have a quick catch up on our placements. Sophie looked so beautiful in her dress and we all had photo's together outside the church outside the service. I had to wait a while for Sonia to come and pick me up so I befriended the priest who showed me whose house to go to if I got stuck and declined some lifts from some young guys who passed by! When Sonia came, we managed to get back on filling up with only ten rand of petrol after realising we had a very empty tank! That evening we had a braai with Glynis, Jose, Talita and her friend and of course their dog, Sharma! We sat outside by their pool and chatted about the week and the wedding and then Sonia and I had a hilarious night talking in the flat in south African accents which I have now seemed to master!


On Sunday I had booked to go tandem paragliding off of Lions Head which is a hill next to Table Mountain after seeing it earlier in the week. Unfortunately it was cancelled at the last minute due to the wind being too strong but we went to Green Point beach and had a picnic which was lovely. We then moved on to the V & A (Victoria and Albert) Waterfront where this famous South African band “Freshly Ground” was playing to the public and we sat and had ice cream after looking at a few souvenir shops and embarrassingly walking past a waitress from a restaurant about a hundred times because we got a bit lost! After getting even more lost trying to find out where we had parked, we drove to signal hill to see the view and then met Sonia's cousin Bradley and his friend Gordon (I think) at the base of Lions Head. We walked up to the top which was not as steep as Eagles Nest and at one point had to go up the rock face with foot holes and a chain. There were lots of people doing the walk and we got there just before sun set. The views were incredible and the sun set was absolutely stunning. We walked back down as it got dark and saw the city all lit up, a perfect end to a perfect week.


Monday was an early start as Sonia was back to university and I was back on a plane to Durban to meet Katie and Patrick. I said goodbye to the family and then Sonia dropped me off at the airport. We were not sad to say goodbye because I will be returning there again in June after my placement but I was sad to leave her after having a really fun week together and wished I could do it all over again. Luckily my flight was on time and I was sat next to the window so could see the country from above and was surprised to see just how mountainous it is. As we flew into KwaZulu Natal I could see the familiar rondavels (round huts) and felt like I was home which was a lovely feeling. I met the others and that was the start of our road trip which I will write about in my next post!


So, what did I love about Cape Town?

Firstly, the contrast of a modern and exciting city enclosed in an army of protective mountains would be putting it in poetic language but that was what was really striking about the place. We could use the mountains to figure out where we were (due to a lack of directional skills!) and at one point Table Mountain would be on your left and then suddenly looking straight at you! I love the way that it is not a city full of high buildings and clutter, but it seems more relaxed and the people too. The beaches and bays are so many to choose from but they all have their own unique attributes and also all the different people that live there. And of course, the African markets! Spending a week there with a close friend and feeling so welcome in her home made it one of the best weeks in this country!


Quotes from the week (just for Sonia)

  • “Mzansi fo sho ayayayayaya”

  • “Johan and Fannie Klopper”

  • “whaai? Faaiv?

  • “Please sun cream my hole”

  • “hoi,hoi hoi (japanese tourists)

  • “all shall be equal before the Ian”

  • “ten literrrs”

  • “Afrikaans two!!”

  • “I'm going out, so stop telling me I'm not allowed to even when it's actually me!”

  • “who goes to Langebaan?”